Pollença also has a victory against the Moorish pirates to celebrate. Here, this special day is commemorated with the festival of the patron Moros y Cristianos. The celebration is held every year on August 2nd.
Awakening to victory – the victorious battle against the Moorish pirates led by the corsair Dragut in 1550 is faithfully reenacted by the city’s inhabitants. At 5 a.m., a marching band makes its way through Plaça Miquel Capllonch to wake the citizens for the festivities.
At 11 in the morning, a mass is held in honor of Mare de Déu dels Àngels, during which groups of Mallorcan folklore dancers (Cossiers) perform in front of the parish church. At 12:15, they perform again in the Plaça Major. At 5:30 PM, the procession begins with the sacred image of Mare de Déu dels Àngels passing through the town.
Celebrate the successes! The highlight is in the evening (7:00 PM) with the battle between Moors and Christians. The Christians, in their white nightgowns because they were caught off guard by the attackers during the night, and the Moorish pirates with tattered clothes face off in the Plaza l’Almoina.
After a battle with slingshots and shotguns, the Christians finally manage to repel the pirates, who surrender. Under the captured corsair flag, the citizens return to the parish church, where at 9:30 PM they give thanks to the Virgin with the Te Deum by Mossèn Miquel Tortell. Around midnight, the city’s anthem is played, and a spectacular fireworks display lights up the night.
As in Sóller, tourists are also welcome in Pollença, and it is likely that the Moors will paint their faces black (usually with shoe polish). Many shotguns are fired as well, so earplugs are recommended.
The Great Battle of Pollença – Patron’s Day: Christians vs. Moors
“How do I look?” Joana shouts around her, twirling in her white satin dress to the rhythm of the music. It’s August 2nd, The Day of the Patron Saint. The Patron Saint’s Day is the highlight of the festive week in Pollença and the most important day of the year for any true resident of Pollença.
The summer hit “Bomba” blares from the speakers. “Boo,” shouts the crowd. “Do you think when the Moors invaded Pollença, our women had so much time to get ready?” asks Tolo. “He’s right. This goes against tradition. Mom left you a nightgown ready,” murmurs Francesc, Joana’s brother, as he munches on peanuts.
Joana gives in. She lives just twelve steps away from the party; in total, the Calvary of Pollença has 365. Across the way, a neighbor with a violet turban and a colorful brocade vest enters his house. “Mom,” calls Joana while tapping on the kitchen window. Everyone’s already gone! She opens the door and finds her mother’s long white cotton nightgown folded on the ironing board.
Joana sighs. The wall clock reads half-past four. She quickly takes off her new satin dress and puts on the familiar garment adorned with lace. She hopes her friends are waiting for her. She doesn’t feel like going to the Plaça Major alone. “Where have you been?” her impatient brother greets her. The group is ready to march.
In the town square, half of the place has already gathered. All the bars have set up outdoor bars, even the Hotel Juma. People meet, drink, and wait. The men wear large earrings and colorful necklaces, and the women, white cotton nightgowns. Even the little ones are dressed up as Christian citizens or Moorish pirates. Finally!
A music band dressed in Eastern attire makes its way through the crowd. Minutes of applause. Then, the residents of Pollença disperse through the streets decorated with white garlands. The decorations trace the route of the Moorish pirates in 1550. Joana walks with her group toward the Plaça d’Almoina.
The most coveted spots around the rooster fountain fill up quickly. Again, she meets acquaintances, chats, and drinks. Around seven, a man in a medieval nightshirt appears on one of the balconies and shouts: “People of Pollença, wake up, the pirates are here!” The crowd has been waiting for these words for almost two hours.
The opera-worthy duel begins between the Christian leader of Pollença, Juan Mas, and the Moorish pirate king, Dragut. Reinforcements quickly arrive: over 600 Christian men armed with pine sticks run through the streets. On the other side, the Moors come with sabers and resonating rifles.
The people press against the walls of the houses, and from a balcony, a bucket of water falls on the brave fighters. “Dad, dad!” calls Joana. This year, her father is fighting on the side of the pirates. His vest adorned with gold is completely soaked with Mesclat, the typical black liqueur of Pollença. Then, Joana also sees her mother.
On her face and nightgown, the stains of her father’s pirate colors are clearly visible. At the end of the battle, the whole town heads to the soccer field. Half an hour later, you hear: Victory for the Christians! Happy and exhausted, the inhabitants make their way to the parish church. The Christian men advance with pine sticks held high toward the altar, accompanied by the men’s choir’s Te Deum.
The organist then plays the Groigs. Joana’s mother sobs. All the inhabitants of Pollença sing the hymn of thanks to the Virgin with all their hearts. Outside, cafes and restaurants begin to fill up. At dusk, opulent menus are served. The highlight of the week’s patron festivities: a grand fireworks display at midnight. Are tourists welcome at this festive event? “Of course, as long as they celebrate with us and not the other way around,” says Joana.
Tip: The festival schedule for the entire patron’s week (La Patrona) is distributed to all households by the municipal administration. Upon request, you can obtain the program at the Ajuntament de Pollença (to the right on the Calvario).
Also, if you wish to stay overnight in Pollença, it is advisable to book accommodations in advance.
Hotels in Pollença
If you want to experience the patron saint’s week right in the town, book as soon as possible!
If there are no availabilities, rent a car (quite affordable in Mallorca). The bus or taxi is not a viable option (buses don’t run at night, and the taxi stand is chaotic).
Don’t want to drive much after the party in Pollença? Then we recommend Cala Sant Vicenc, just seven kilometers away (also accessible by moped, well-lit along the road; rentals in Cala Sant Vicenc: Motos Formentor, C/Temporal, Tel.: 971 533 146, Fax: 971 864 177).
Juma Historic Hotel (Pollença)
Privileged view of Plaça Major: The small city hotel, built in 1907, is our favorite! You can enjoy breakfast in the hotel café or in the market square.
Double room approximately 90 euros (with breakfast), double room with a view of Plaça Major approximately 97 euros; Plaça Major 9, 07460 Pollença, Tel.: 971/535002, Fax: 971/534155
Son Sant Jordi Boutique House (Pollença)
Luxury hotel with pool, sauna, and garden: Each room is as large as a suite and individually decorated in the Mallorca style! Downstairs, there is a gourmet restaurant with excellent island specialties.
Double room approximately 100 euros per person (breakfast can be ordered for about 6 euros extra); C/Sant Jordi 31, 07460 Pollença, Tel./Fax: 971/530389.
Hotel Hopsa Niu (en Cala Sant Vicenc)
Small family hotel with a terrace on the beach: Cala Sant Vicenç cove is ideal for snorkeling!
Double room approximately 55 euros per person (with breakfast); Cala Barques, 07460 Pollença (Cala Sant Vicenç), Tel.: 971 530 100, Fax: 971 531 220 (open from March to November).
